Thanks for all the suggestions about Ubon. Relaxing Sauna and Spa is still there but finding it is like finding that proverbial needle in the haystack. I rang the phone number on the website Š 045 242 249 Š and thankfully there is someone with limited English. This established that it is in Prommarat Road Soi 1, quite close to the river. ThatÕs the easy part. Having walked 20 minutes from my hotel armed with just a basic map all in Thai (almost the only one hotels give out - although on departure I did find a bilingual map for 150 Baht at the airport which would have made things so much easier!), I found Soi 2 and assumed Soi 1 would be relatively close. Then I found Soi 3 and so backtracked going down endless little trails for the next 30 minutes. With just basic Thai, I asked over 6 people for Soi 1 Š and none had a clue! Finally turning back, I eventually found it in which must be a logical position Š a small, unmarked concrete path between Soi 2 and 3! There is a sign for the sauna on a house wall, but you will only notice it if you are walking in one direction (east). So keep looking around you when you see concrete paths.
To get that far, itÕs best to ask your hotel to point out 2 temples on your map Š Wat Klang and Wat Tai Ong Tue. Both are on Prommarat and the sauna is roughly between them (slightly closer to Wat Klang). Soi 1 goes down towards the river (away from the main town) and Rainbow is about 50 metres on the right. ItÕs an old Thai house with two wings separated by a little garden. Upstairs from the changing room (with the tiniest lockers I have ever encountered!) is a small gym area and a reading room with a computer. The other wing is much more attractive with a bar, sauna and steam room, several sitting out areas, a video room, 2 dark rooms and a few cabins. Most of the action was in the dark room behind the video room.
The setting is lovely, much like the House of Male in Chiang Mai, but with no restaurant. Entrance is 99 Baht and drinks are only 40 Baht. One problem is that it is all very dark, so move slowly until you get the hang of the place or youÕll hit something sticking out from a floor or a wall. Another, as others have pointed out, is that foreigners rarely visit except during the Candle Festival, and whilst thereÕs a natural curiosity, you may only find a few guys interested in going to a cabin with you. But that dark room can be hot and busy!
Although Rainbow officially opens at 6:00 pm, thereÕs no point going much before 9:00 when most of the locals arrive. The 2 nights I went, there must have been about 40 guys by 10.30. Yet another problem is that part of town is all but dead at night and there is no late public transport. So before you set out for your visit, work out how you are going to return, especially if you are staying some distance away. Hopefully youÕll find a guy prepared to give you a lift home.
And the Candle Festival is really worth a visit.
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