I recently got a Logitech eyeball camera and software that went with it and have just started using it. When I watch other guys jack off, the action seems almost live - like watching TV. However, when I watch myself on my screen, the action seems jerky and choppy. Is this the way those viewing my webcam see me? What type camera and software can you guys suggest to improve on the action and make it more enjoyable? Would also like tips on lighting, camera placement, etc.

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When you're watching yourself, the computer is simultaneously constructing the image from the camera input and rendering it on the screen. These are both processor-intensive tasks, and have to execute along with whatever else the system is doing, including the background system-level stuff not associated with the programs you are running.

The chop results from a number of factors, such as the speed of your CPU chip, the amount of memory you have available (installed RAM plus the size of the disk swapfile, minus the overhead for system and application components), the version of the operating system, other programs you are running at the same time, and the video software itself.

I don't have any particular recommendations for the video software, but a few things that can help reduce the amount of work it needs to do for the video are:

* have the room lighting at a normal to relatively-bright level versus very bright or very dark so you can turn off automatic brightness tracking and low-light filtering.

* use a "medium" setting for the image quality ("sharpness") instead of "high" or "best"

* reduce the image size to 320x240 (or 640x480 if the camera supports 1024 or larger sizes)

* use a lower color depth ("thousands" versus "millions")

* if your camera supports both parallel and USB interfaces, try the parallel method to connect to the computer; if it's only USB make sure both it and the computer are running USB 2.0 or later.

If you're running a Windows machine, you'll want to give it at least 384MB of physical memory (RAM); 512MB or more is better. Also, be sure you are running the latest version (XP with Service Pack 2).

If you are on a broadband connection and the modem is connected directly to the computer, consider getting a broadband router to put between them instead, especially if the service uses PPPoE (for example, Verizon DSL). This is because the connection software is running in the computer and that can take a lot of horsepower away from other processes. The router handles the login tasks allowing you to disable the drivers on the computer.

As for what the other side sees, they may notice some of the chop, but it will be more affected by the quality of your Internet connection. If you're using broadband, you want at least 1500/384 service. Anything slower can bog down. For dialup, you will certainly experience extremely poor performance.

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Agree with all of the above; thanks to the dude for posting all that so I didn't have to!



I'd stress the RAM most of all. More RAM is ALWAYS better.

I also use a Logitech cam and the supplied software. I'm guessing you have the model that is one step above mine.

I get the best results using the AUTO setting. Picture clarity is perfect, lighting need not be adjusted, speed is optimized. There's very few tabs and settings to sift through with the Logitech software, so just hunt around for it. I am not at home and don't have my cam or software on this PC so I can't give you explicit directions on where the AUTO setting is -- but it's very easy to find.

What's interesting is that for me, MY image moves MUCH faster than the image of anyone else. However, I tend to use public sites rather than a cam to cam interface; public sites are slower.

If you are using NetMeeting or ICUII, fiddle with those settings as well. Eventually you'll find the best combination.

As for whether or not the other guys are seeing slow video from your cam -- why not just ask them?

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When you purchase a cam check that the lens can be turned to focus it.
A "fixed" focus lens is really no good.
Even most of the $20 cams have this variable focussing now.
However because the pic appears delayed, runs slow and "jogs" when on line it is IMPOSSIBLE to focus it when you are connected.
So::::
Just run the cam pic software without being on line.
This is usually "make a short movie" part of the software.
The pic should now be "continuous".
Use a pentel to make an alignment marker on the lens holder (the bit you turn to focus).
Now adjust the lens for that nice "closeup" definition, and mark ".5m" or whatever on the cam body next to the marker.
Move to your intermediate distance and focus the pic and mark the cam body "1m" or whatever, and then to a glorious distant/whole of your body shot and mark again.
Now you will be able to reset the focus when you are on line, moving around, all hot and sweaty, and with the pic appearing delayed.

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